My Journey to the Origin of Ganga and Yamuna {Part 2}

 

It is continuation from My previous Blog (My Journey to the Origin of Ganga and Yamuna).......

        We started our journey Gaumukh at 6:30am. That was Monday, day of lord Shiva so, we started our journey by taking name of lord Shiva in our hearts. We were going to Shiva’s Jatta (twisted locks of hair) only! Gaumukh’s other side is Kedarnath.  Many Rishis (sages) go bare foot till Kedarnath; actually, this is not a defined path, one has to find its through wilderness.

 

A small tributary, joining ganga

        We packed some biscuit, cake packets, raincoats, dry fruits, some extra clothes, rain coats as if the clouds were likely to rain on us, a torch, first aid box etc. All these stuffs were in our Backpacks and carried by all of us but my brother. The younger one was initially carrying one, but, gave his backpack, the smallest one, to father. Although this small Backpack could have carried by one body, but he declared that he is feeling oxygen is less here and a small child like him can’t carry a bag!!! The biggest bag was carried by father where all the extra clothes were kept. Next bigger bag was with me which had most of the food items. Father was little scared about the plan that I am going to carry the food items as he thought that I will walk very fast and when I will not see any of them, I will start eating all those cake and biscuits and finish them all… but at last he trusted me, I know I am a Foodie but I am not a Greedy person. Then the small two bags were carried by brother and mother, oh I forgot not Brother but Father!!!  

'Sick' Brother resting on the trail

        First, we have to trek to the checkpoint which was 2 km away from the Gangotri village. There we have to show our passes which were made in Uttarkashi. We took a route behind the temple which was told that’s a shortcut. We all know in life there is no shortcuts and this proved here too, the road was full of stairs at first and then the main route came. We trekked to the checkpoint and waited while father was completing the paper works. This made us restless… from here we started our trek at last.

 

The Check Point

        I saw a jolly nature there, which you can’t see in cities. No pollution, no tall building which prevents us from gazing at the sky, etc. 

A jolly Nature 

        Our first destination was CHIRWASA which is a checkpoint and a Maggi point too. The people of the forest department will make Maggi and tea for you. In this whole path you will not find any restaurant to eat. Earlier there were many restaurants on the way but when the route was brought under the national park then those small restaurants were removed.  One should always remember that in Chirwasa there is no place to stay but you can make tents there; so, walk like a bullet train if you want to reach BHOJWASA where you will finally find the GMVN TRH Bhojwasa and Lal baba Ashram to stay.  

 

        We were walking between the big mountains which were touching the sky. Whenever I got tired, I just gazed at the river and got energy from it and thought if this river can flow all the time, then 14 km is nothing for me.

Flowing Ganga

        As father thought, I was as fast as a cheetah; they didn’t even saw me when I vanished. There are many chances of getting vanish - first is my reason (food vanish), second is the notorious carnivorous and the last reason is that you can tumble on the river and flow away until you hit a boulder. So, these reasons made my parents tensed. I was also tensed and waited for some time in the path for them to catchup. I got so bored walking alone that I started talking with me that how I will feel after trekking the Gaumukh, happy, tired or really excited. 

Behold, suddenly I found myself in a colourful nature, full of red, yellow trees around myself, a smell of wild Tulsi was coming from the bushes; I could identify Bhojpatra tree. Bhojbasa is named after this tree as there you can found many Bhojpatra tree. In old times bark of Bhojpatra was also used to write. 

Bhojpatra trees

        After sometime I met rest of them in the shade of bhojpatra and we ate our breakfast. Here onwards we divided ourselves in group, mamma and my group will walk ahead; father and brother group will walk slow as father had a heavy bag and brother had a bad tummy. That time I thought we have crossed many kilometers but we just covered 3km!! 

We resting in the shade of bhojpatra

 

Oh! one more gentleman is resting here

        On whole pathway there were few small green houses for rest and of course boulders too are always there. The roads are not too steep like the roads of Kerdarnath, this enabled us to walk comfortably. On our way, both mamma and myself got bored while walking and asking people that please tell us how far is Chirwasa. So, I started narrating stories from Ruskin bond’s novels. This made my mother more bored and she changed the topic. I turned and saw father is coming behind us so we again took a tiny break. After crossing 3 to 4 wood bridges (shown in the images), crossing long routes, walking on the boulders, at last we reached Chirwasa around 1:30.

  

        Chirwasa is the habitat of Chir trees. A shady area where you will really feel like sitting in the heaven; but I hope you will definitely find more peace and comfort in Gaumukh. When we reached Chirwasa my brother rolled down on a rock and had a nice little sleep. We ate Maggi and tea which felt like Ambrosia. We took rest for some time then again started walking. 

 

Panoramic view of the trail 

For now, we were walking through the forest but suddenly there were no trees above our head and the sun made us a roast chicken. The rays of suns are very harmful in the mountains so never forget to rub a sunscreen on your skin to avoid any sunburn. We were walking under the hanging rocks. Sometimes we were walking in such a trail that only one person can walk through it at a time. Sometimes on the top of the mountains we saw some structures looked like big termite nest.

 

        As we took many hours to reach Chirwasa so we had to walk quickly to reach Bhojbasa before evening. In the mountains when the sun sets it get dark in minutes and trekking in dark is a dangerous thing as many dangers (including snow leopards or Bears) may get in your path, but some people do it to save time. Our plan was to walk before it gets dark. But we were not so ahead that we would reach so quickly that’s why after a dry-fruit break, we crossed a tributary then I walked ahead in my speed. When I was walking alone, many funky thoughts came in my mind which in that stage every person would get: that if by chance Mr. Snow leopard come in front of me to invite me for a tea party! Or the moody clouds rains and there would be a land slide in front of my eyes… but never stopped and walked away. The chilly breeze where also there to accompany me; tried to chat with me in its language “wooohhhss…” After some time, brother joined me as his tummy got fine but mamma’s tummy was growling now. So, chatting with him that how my thoughts where disturbing we found another danger in front of our eyes. A board was mentioning: -

 “Stone Falling Zone, Please Walk Carefully”

        We walked little ahead from the board and saw there is no trail for trek then we both thought is it a stone falling zone or a human falling zone? We decided to cross the zone and walk away until we reach Bhojbasa. Me and my brother both started walking. Again, my amazing thoughts woke up and told me “If you slip your leg there then an adventurous and free of cost Ganga darshan will be waiting for you down there!”. 

        But concentrating on the road, I walked. My brother was felling restless by walking this trail so he sat down on the middle of the trail. Think about my plight, neither I can beat him nor I can turn back to see him. But later he realized he should walk and when he was about to stand, from top of mountain a bunch of stone fell on the river directly in front of him. My brother even didn’t think to sit. When we were walking, many stones were falling down there to the river. You will realize this when you cross that type of trail, slippery and it’s named also Gila Pahar.

        After crossing it we saw the thing that I wanted to see- BHARALS!! When we crossed it, we were resting near a rock and when I saw above the rock, I saw two of them. So, I took a sudden action and sat down silently and waiting for father to come and see that animal. But it fled away but fortunately my parents were crossing the unsteady route and they saw them. Meanwhile, both Bharals gave some gifts too, from the top of the mountains, directly on your head- falling stones due to their running hoofs. But my parents came out from that zone safely. Again, we had a break, the last one just before to reach Bhojbasa.

 

        Head-ache on this upmost level, legs refusing to walk, hands weary after holding walking sticks for hours, shoulders broken and brains gives rains of hope for reach our destination. And slithering and slithering we reached Bhojbasa. Really those weary legs that time were very-very-very tried and I laid down on a bench from where you can see Bhojbasa and far away tiny little head of Bhagirathi-I was peeping out from the corner of the mountain, try to tell “you are not lost, keep going, I am waiting for you here”. Seeing the Bhojwasa, I felt so hungry that I could eat a whole leopard!

 

Bhojwasa

 

        At last reached GMVN of Bhojbasa where there are two tents and dormitory to stay. As we were four, we booked 4 bed out of 8 beds of a dormitory room. Our tummies got a full peace after eating plateful of Maggi. We took and gave massage to each other with the liniment which we were carrying with us. As I have a foresight, I was thinking about the moment when we will cross that dangerous trail again!!

GMVN TRH

Lal Baba Ashram

        In Bhojwasa, you have to sleep at around 7pm as the lights are off which works on solar energy. Don’t worry emergency lights will be provided to go to washroom! Dinner also you have to eat at around 6. That time I go to play! It was little strange to eat and sleep so early.

 

        Their food is very simple. Dal, Roti, Rice. It is our daily dinner whenever we go to mountains as the road there would make your tummy feel like dancing. Some great man told “if there is advantage then there is disadvantage too” just like the Newton’s law that “if there is action then reaction is also there”. I think I am becoming too scientific! I talked about this thought because the scenic beauty there would make you forget about your health and if your tummy is a little bit upset, you will suffer very much as you go high and high in the mountains. That’s why our menu is always simple, even a piece of chips we don’t eat!

Ice-capped Mountains

        That day after eating the same meal we were planning for tomorrow. Tomorrow, I mean the day to reach the destination--- Gaumukh. I can’t really express myself rather I couldn’t find out that if I was excited or nervous!

        So packed all our required things; we were carrying only one bag.  That night I was not so much scared as the route was only 4 km but don’t know why a group which returned that evening was very tried, don’t know, it could be for their stamina.

 

        That night, had a nice good sleep. We managed to get a guide, with whom we talked last night. He told that he will start early and if we can’t coop up with him then he will take other tourist. And that only happened! We start at 6:10 at morning and the guide went away with others.

 

        Here, the 4km to Gaumukh, guide is very necessary as first you will get an adventurous trolley to cross and go to other side of Ganga from where the view of the Gaumukh can be seen clearly. Then a route without a route! I mean you will have to find your way to the glacier. There is one more route to Gaumukh which is the main one but that time it was blocked by a big landslide and also the view is not so clear from there.

        But where would we get a Guide? The main need of guide was to cross the trolley. The name of Trolley would make you think of an image of a beautiful trolley used in the crystal clear nainital lake but don’t fool yourself! Here trolley’s seat is made of iron rods and look like an iron basket carrying human not food! Its work on two ropes which can break into two but don’t worry it will not break!! It is pulled and pushed by the people in both banks, first this side people would push the trolley towards the other side and its stops in the middle of the river! Then from another side the ropes are pulled towards the bank. Its really a tough job! Hope I am able to explain. you can also see in the images which I tried to take in a state of horror after seeing the trolley!!!

 

 

        No guide was ready to go with us as they were busy with other works rather, they didn’t want to cross the river by trolley! This problem happens sometimes if you have not booked any guide from Uttarkashi.

 

        Then somebody told father that there is an old man who earlier used to go with tourists as a guide but now he prefers to live and do worship in the bhojbasa ashram. So, they told father to ask him if he can go with us. He made his mind that he will not go but when he heard that two kids are also with us who were me and brother, he got convinced. Everybody calls him “mamu” it’s a Hindi word means maternal uncle. I also call him mamu but he is at an age of my grandpa.

        He with father pulled the trolley from other side. But now a question rises that who will pull them from the other side? I will say nobody, don’t worry I will explain. When they crossed the splashing- thrashing river, they came over a dry river bed, with help of the ropes (used for pulling the trolley) they slithered down to the dry river bed and climbed up to the other bank.  Then pulled our trolley. It was one of my scary experience to cross ragging Ganga like that. The others who were pushing us that side, told 3 of us to sit together. First, I was the guinea pig to sit in that trolley, I would try to visualise it… it was made of an iron rods (never think of a cushion on it!) as I told it was an iron basket carrying us. When I sat at those rods it felt like siting on an ice rather on the Gaumukh glacier! The walking sticks carried by us were given to the world’s greatest unbalanced person, on whom no Newton's laws are applicable and who is this? – “me”! I was confused that, should I hold the sticks or the handle! So, consoling our hearts and taking Bholenath’s name in our minds we were pushed towards the Maa Ganga. My heart skipped a beat.

        Mother didn’t even take any chance to see at the river! Brother was planning to take a dip by jumping from the trolley! And me …… I was not present in my body! Shaking like a leaf! Not for cold but for spine chilling moment. On other bank, Father and mamu were giving their whole-body strength to pull our trolley. The thing was that if… if the rope slice away… dice away … or even mince away!!! We would be in the water, thrashing and splashing at the big boulders like a wave but we would be spot dead!

        All these imaginations were cooking up in my mind; hope this would never ever happens with anyone! Uff… at last reached the Bank. My soul came back to its Body! We started our next 4 km journey. This was more dangerous than the previous trails. No plain route was there as I guessed; not walking over soil but rocks! Its very difficult to walk on rocks as you may get sprains on your feet or fall in a very bad style! I wouldn’t hide my blunders too, I also fell and got little bit sprains on my feet!!! Mamu and me were busy so much in chatting, that I forgot my pain in my feet. As usual 3 lagging musketeers were left behind; mother helping herself from falling, brother walking as fast as a snail, and father giving support to them. I was telling Mamu that how many places I have visited in Uttarakhand. He was really interested to know all those interesting stories. He also told his stories that his family lives in Harsil and he also has grandchildren like me and my brother. But family attraction doesn’t attract him, he has given his everything to Ganga Maa. In the ashram where he lives, earlier there was a priest who did puja for ages and lived there with his disciples for many years but after his death, mamu does the puja there.

 

some beauty of nature

         I was carrying my tooth which had broken a week ago from our journey, so I planned to offer it Maa Ganga, as these are some rituals followed by Hindus that when anyone’s milk tooth broke it should be offered to some water body and offering my tooth to ganga in its origin was my fortune. I was telling this to mamu, he also told that as he is growing old and his teeth are bored to work so much; so, when he washes his face in the water of the river ganga, his teeth also go away with the water to some destination like the water of the river.

 

 

        Now we were in a plain area with some boulders like milestones. Mamu told that this area is where the river comes at rainy season and this is now the dry river bed. He also added that in winter there is snow everywhere, no one lives there in bhojbasa, except him and a muni baba over Gaumukh (a plain grassland called tapovan); and he roams around with a tin sheet, he uses it as a sledge and slides everywhere!

 

         In this plain area, if you try to run then you will feel less oxygen. But otherwise, you will not find any problem. After the plain area is a dangerous, sprain prone, rocky trail! We were literally walking like… like a baby who is learning to walk; stepping one by one in a careful manner, not in the floor but in big, small rocks kept to make a trail. Walking in big rocks is very difficult, if you slip your foot then you can’t walk to Gaumukh which is 1 km away and return back to Bhojbasa too. So, stepping every step very carefully we headed towards our destination. 

 

This time too me and mamu were ahead. The more steps we took the more we saw the head of the glacier. Walking and walking… mamu told “beta you have walked so many km then why would you stop at the footsteps of the glacier? Come child Ganga Maa is waiting for you”. These few words have a deep meaning. In my mind was trying to find the mystery of the sentence and suddenly the world’s most beautiful moment was in front of me. The big mouth of the glacier, Ganga Maa flowing out from the cave. Inside the cave nothing can be seen, only a small stream of water is coming out. 

The whole glacier is made up of ice debris. Even some ice balls were falling from the upper side of the glacier. In front of the cave was a little island like structure. We made or own path towards the island, by step on rocks. When I was going towards the island for a closer look of the glacier, I made a landslide of rocks from the bank and fell on the river water, half wet. And the river bed was also like a quick sand and was getting inside it but thank God father and brother helped me to get out from there. I offered my little tooth to Ganga Maa.

 

        I can’t express my excitement in words, really!

So, I wrote out this poem dedicated to Gaumukh

 

The Origin of Ganges

Oh Ganges!

You break all ranges.

You are India’s pride!

You have made this land beautified.

 

Gaumukh is the place

Where you start your life race.

Your origin is as beautiful as

A topaz!

 

Opened mouth

With water routh

Gaumukh gives all

It has a snow shawl.

 

3 guardians standing behind

Guarding it in the hind.

Majestic is there size

Touching the skies.

 

Small ganga flows out of it

Never quits

So why one should quit in life

Throw away all your strife

And take a big flight

To reach your success light!

 

To be continued……….

The Panoramic View of Gaumukh Glacier